All that Jazz

 You will never guess where we are right now! I will give you a hint-Happy Birthday 90th  (10/5)  to Chris Owens-may she and her false eyelashes Rest In Peace-wonder who owns the block of St. Louis and Bourbon now?  We snuck out of town on Monday and drove (really fought) down I10 a mere five hours to New Orleans. Why NOLA?  It is George’s 40th birthday-he was born here and had not been back-one part bucket list one part foodie request.    Why did we sneak?  We had it on really good authority that George (Ed or I) would get a permanent scar-not like a tattoo or piercing of a wild body part but as in a bullet hole or deep knife wound as a souvenir…at the very least we could expect to be rolled and robbed.  Something about the way we look, I guess, low hanging fruit and all.    So after days of hand wringing and discussions with friends that still live in NOLA and George’s NOLA branch of his law firm, we hit the book ‘em button on Google and started packing.  Of course, as with any Pickle field trip, the big decisions revolves around when and where do we eat.  Eddie made his list, George made his, of course, I made the various reservations.  Covid has not change the management hierarchy at House Pickle.  Need me a good Ring of Power (Amazon Prime TV) or Dragon egg (HBO Max)-yeah, looks like we need a road trip.  

Covid, conventions, Katrina, bad press/increased security (doubtful) has made the cost of a modest hotel room(s) (at 40 we figured George could have his own room and not sleep on a fold out) with the extra fees crazy expensive.  I hear rooms on some of the cruises ships out of Galveston are currently going for 4 days for less than a $100 bill-inside cabin, tips and drinks not included.  Let’s just say we could have had a pair of nice suites on a 4 dayer for what we are paying for a shoe box…conveniently located, with history across from the Louisiana Supreme Court building-Royal Orleans, and steps away from the NOPD-location, location, location.  I think my laundry room and 1/2 bath are bigger.  It does have a nice garden terrace patio out of each.  The weather is pleasant enough to allow me space-mentally and physically-to have my coffee, read, write-you get use to the noise-probably the air handling system.  

We chose to come first part of week as the criminal element is less active after a big weekend of tourists and cruisers (ship turn around is on Sunday)…and the hotels are 33% less expensive.  Always pinching a penny, that KP.  If you are not a foodie, and food is food, you will be fine.  But we all know Mr. Eddie…he is the ultimate foodie.  In planning I had to create a Venn diagram of days of week, who is open on which day from our list.  A couple of things not open any more first part of week is the zoo and aquarium…two things on G’s list…he is a closet zoo and aquarium junkie.  Open is the National WWII museum and sazerac house.  The restaurants were a mine field.  3 weeks out, we had reservations for the #1 (GW Fins), George’s office friend pick (Muriel’s-it was more about location) and Eddie’s lifetime #1 Galatories.  There is Felix or Acme, a Brennen family restaurant (there are now tons due to a family squabble and Katrina) Beignets and a couple of Bars that George had on his must see.  

We moved from the Big Easy in 1985.  The flagstone sidewalks were almost new then…but have not be fixed in the past years or disasters.  So when the Doctor ask if we have had any recent falls, I can just say French Quarter and get a pass.      Eddie, George and Lauren were born here, Eddie had fond childhood memories, law clerking and practicing law memories.  The kids were too young to remember much, but I do have my own set of memories of NOLA.  We have been back several times in the last 37 years, but fewer than the fingers on one hand since Katrina.  Each time a little more has changed, a little less of the jazzy  cool vibe, that was deeply woven into the fabric.  The French Quarter that was getting its groove back post Katrina has suffered another body blow…Covid.  Long time bars, shops and restaurants are closed and shuttered…lack of tourists, lack of workers…lack of lack of.  What is left is the restaurants that have stood the test of time…the Nuevo culinary kids have come and gone, as have the Food Network stars places.  What is left is a whole lot of places serving very similar menus of Creole and Cajun classic with a side order of fried foods…all for a reasonable price.  You can still get a 3 course meal for around $50 a head.  There are a few places that have a little Asian or Mexican (Spanish is creole-Mexican is Mexican) flare going on, but they are serving what the tourists expect at a price the tourists don’t bitch about on Yelp.  In 37 years, it is no longer exclusive to NOLA…it is no longer worth the travel to get the food.  Our resident foodies are slightly disappointed.  But have not pushed away from the table for sure.  The bar scene….I swear these floors have not been mopped since Katrina and the Health Department made them do it.  The bar tops are still sticky with a years worth of sloshed drinks…but the price is still right.  They have figured out in NOLA if you charge $20 a drink, most folks are 1 and done.  At $7-9 (half that if you look for the happy hour specials) you can get your happy on for not to much money.  

New Orleans still has some of the best people watching hands down in the world.  I am almost sure that at 20 years old when Fast Eddie brought me to New Orleans on a train in a private compartment to Adlers on Canal Street to buy my engagement ring, I was so naive that he had to remind me not to point or stare.  I am almost sure I saw my first bunches of gay couples, trans and gender confused folks here in NOLA.  I don’t even lift an eyebrow anymore.  See, just like the food and culture-New Orleans was ahead of its time.  Currently there is a riotous amount of unshaved womens underarms seeing a lot of play on the crowds here in New Orleans…ya’ll can just keep that one.   Best people watching happened at Muriel’s balcony on the corner near Jackson Square.  We were watching the people go by to include a pair of locals with long rasty nasty dreads, a bike with a kiddie sleigh, and momma with a wagon with a toddler in tow.  Never mind that momma had a black chicken on her shoulder and dad had a brown and black chicken on his.  The three of us watched as they walked down the street and around the tons of,people along Jax square…looking down at their cell phones.  Not a soul-but us on the balcony—-saw the show of the day.  Must have all been locals. 

I will close with an a Eddie story…cause what is a Karen travel journey without an Eddie story.  Night #1 we have reservations for GW Fins (yeh, seafood, catchy name, I know) for 6:30.  We left our happy hour bar stools at the Kingfisher (Happy hour pricing and all) and wobbled down the broken flagstone (it is black, so I call it slate, but Eddie insists it is flagstone) sidewalk.  It actually was the sidewalk, not the happy hour libations.  We arrive 15 minutes early to be told to cool our jets either on the sidewalk with the folks hanging out waiting for no shows or have a seat at the bar.  Eddie picks seat a the bar.  George and I ordered our drink of the day- a Sazerac which was served in a rocks glass.  For you that do not know your way around a bar, it is a short stubby glass, pretty hard to knock over or drop due to design.  Eddie got a Martini with a twist, gin, not vodka.  His is served in a chilled traditional martini glass-which was served in a stemmed glass, the better ones are thin crystal (maybe, maybe not) with a round base and stiletto glass stem-easier knocked over or broken in the paws of a muscular man.  His drink arrived, filled to the absolute brim.  Before we could collectively take a sip, our table was ready.  George and I grab our stubby little glasses and follow the hostess.  Apparently, she took one look at Eddie and the martini and called for back up.  “They” insisted that they would carry Eddie’s drink to the table.  Eddie is a professional, he uses the glasses at home…he has been know to carry them great distances without spilling a drop.   He was miffed, why did he need drink assistance?  Yes, the tables were close together, yes, there was lots of movement, yes, the drink was really full, and there is everything that Eddie bring to the table.  When we got into our shoe box hotel bed-did I mention we slept in a queen sized bed-first time in many, many years, (and pounds) ago.  He went to sleep asking why they felt they needed take his drink to the table.  Oh, Eddie.  

All Aboard!

 We boarded the Amtrak Coast Starlight at 9:20 (Sunday-give me a break, I have been busy).  While the train goes from Seattle to LA, we detrained in Portland.  I get to add Oregon to my states visited, Eddie has been there done that, visit my niece and her family and hang out for a few days with my sister and brother law, so nice way to drop a pin or four in Oregon.  

At some point over the weekend, I realized that we should just fly back to Houston from Portland rather than returning on the train, staying over a night at the scenic Sea-Tac airport Hilton and flying to Houston on Thursday.  What we will do for a low cost business class seat these days.  At last check, there are flights direct from Portland to Houston.  So, I spent the better part of the trip modifying our travel arrangements. There had been a lot of moving parts when we first started these plans, I guess I just did not retrace my steps on final…out of practice, Covid brain, getting too old for this stuff, you pick.  Back to changing our return.  Tricky, as the modern trains here in US do not have Wi-Fi…so last century.   So, spotty cell service it is.  As the announcer said before leaving King Station Seattle, our trip was supposedly some of the most scenic in the US.   They even have a park ranger on board in the Vista car to point out the high points.  Gee, those high points must have happened south of the Portland stops.  While there were some scenic areas with trees, mountains and a river or two, there was a lot of empty warehouse space, graffiti, recycling operations, graffiti, trash and homeless encampments.  Did I mention graffiti? I know that the West Coast is  a little more “progressive” in what constitutes a national park or treasure, but a Park Ranger on board seemed a little excessive for what we were seeing out the windows.  Or is this the way to “defund the police” but still have a person in uniform on board?  Thinking outside the box, for sure.  

We had been warned that the passenger trains don’t necessarily run on schedule, as they must yield the rails to freight trains…supply chain issues trump warm bodies on vacation.  It was Sunday, so no delays.  We rolled into Portland under the same rains gray skies that were with us in Seattle.  The Union Station Portland is located by the Greyhound Bus Terminal and the Homeless “solution” camp…these are 8x8 temporary to permanent closets…lots of them in a fenced in park.  As there were plenty of others sleeping in doorways, I don’t think the solution was for everyone.  After last summer’s Portland nocturnal activities (read riots) the downtown area is an empty shell of its form self.  Seattle,  she is still intact and shiny just empty of worker bees.  Portland has a more abandoned forever empty look.  Sad.  But as we all know those of us that survived the 1960s and 70s demonstrations and unrest (again, read riots), history tends to repeat itself…and cities return.    The Cains had successfully handed us off to my sister Kathy and her husband, Eric for the Portland visit.  Kathy has always said that Seattle is a pretty white collar area, with Portland having a more blue collar vibe-actually she said more of a carnie worker vibe, but that would be Portland insensitive and we might be asked to leave if we said it out loud.  Sister be spot on in her descriptive vocabulary. 

Kathy (and Eric) have actually spent a great deal of time in both Seattle and Portland in the last years…adult children with grandchildren tend to promote that kind of behavior…along with Covid travel restrictions. They speak fluent PNW, and are comfortable with the roads and things to see and do.  Kinda like a cruise ship, we were presented with the various options to include the historic town Astoria on the coast, Cannon Beach with its icon rock formation with Nantucket meets Carmel beach front shops and galleries, the Columbia Brand Factory Outlet for Employees store-a special for AARP card holders in June,  Tillamonk Cheese Factory and visitor center with Surfside Beach, wine tasting-just pick red or white, Mount Hood, Columbia River Gorge and Vista house,  Multnomah Falls  National Park with lunch at the Historic Lodge built in the early 1900s.  We opted for the National Park Passport moment (yeah, we are total nerds), Columbia River Gorge, with Cannon Beach, lunch and shopping, with a side order of dinner with our Niece’s family over the course of our two and a half days.  Sunday evening was spent with Lindsay and her family (Jeff and 2 & 4 year old boys).  A backyard picnic with fire in June…what could be better.  Oh, by the way,, the Portland fam have serious gardening skills.  Her tomato plants are so numerous it could actually be the fresh tomato section at H-E-B.  I wish.  

We talked to Frank about what would be the best timing, since the rain that has closed parts of Yellowstone National Park recently was here before we came,…and the remains bands have  made our days full of splash and dash moments.  We decided the Cannon Beach/Columbia Store day would best suit Monday’s forecast and The Falls and Gorge would be a good Tuesday activity. The Oregon coast and the Columbia River are actually super close activities from Portland.  Think Houston to Galveston or Houston to Brenham…and just like Houston depending on traffic about an hour. 

We started our day at 9:00, for a short drive to Beaverton and the factory outlet.  Yeah, I know, but Kathy and I love a good deal, so an employees factory outlet was going to be one of our stops.  Columbia has the Prana, MountainGear and Sorel brands, too-so Eddie was game for some new shirts that were short sleeved, non Hawaiian or tee shirt material…the store was so big that he even did his own shopping…shocker, I know.  I figured him for the bench in front of the store kinda guy, but he was all in.  I think it was the gourmet coffee we had while we waited for the store to open.  Apparently, Portland likes to lay claim to being a coffee mecca -there are more independent coffee houses in Oregon than nail bar in Texas.  After my Starbucks experience, I would have to say Oregon’s indie coffee is better….and they did not have a security guard, or a digit lock bathroom.  Eddie liked the plate sized warmed cinnamon roll, too.  Sugar and Caffeine, Eddie’s morning drugs of choice.  By 11:15 we were headed to the coast… after we did our best to stimulate the Oregon economy.  Cannon Beach has the iconic Haystack rock just off the shore line-you know the one that is in all the pictures when someone says Oregon Coast.  The Beach is wide and sandy, but the outdoor temps in the low 50s with grey skies, with us in the rain jackets, we made our photo memories and retreated to the restaurant on the beach with the view of the rock and had a seafood lunch.  What would a beach visit be without the bag of salt water taffy?  At least that and the Christmas ornament hunt gave us a sense of purpose as we strolled the shops.  Seafoam candy-got an assortment of that, too.  A honeycomb inside -kinda  like butterfinger, but not, with white, milk or dark chocolate.  Interesting, not sure if I am going to Pinterest the recipe.  Eddie opted for 1-1/2 pounds of Taffy.  Glad we have some dental insurance, Woody needs us old guys to show up for new crowns and bridge works, routine cleanings just keep the lights on.  

Tuesday’s weather could be blue to grey in a matter in minutes.   Lots of lush scenery from the highway, but even more adventure (read hairpin narrow turns up and down mountains) if you take the Historical Highway.  If you planned your visit to the National Park-which of course we did, this is a Borg/Pickle tour-you had to advance purchase parking/passage at the Falls ($2 for middle of the interstate parking-and access to the under the road tunnel) and on the Historical highway.  Planners and rule obeyers, so we did that but no one checked.  Eric was sporting a US Paratroopers ball cap (not that he was)…guy told us that Vets are free.  Yeah, Eddie and Eric both can claim that status, but the ball cap was all the proof needed for the guard.  Did I mention that Eric is way up in the 6 foot and multiple inches something range?  Guard looked up at Eric and waved us in.    The Falls are the second tallest in the US…it was awesome.  With all the rain, the cascade over the upper falls was intense.  There is a path to the an upper bridge that is great for photos, if you don’t mind wet underwear and cameras.  We opted for picture from the lower areas and dry tightie whities…if would make for a long ride home.  We had lunch at the 100+ year old  lodge restaurant.  It reminded us of the various stone and beamed lodges that are part of the National Parks.  Post lunch we opted for the butt tingling adventure up the historic highway to Vista point that over looks the Columbia River Gorge.  There are stops along the way-waterfall, scenic vista and surprisingly more than a few old homes and farms.  We were thankful for the skies that threatened rain, but never delivered.  

Eric was lobbying for a Pinot Noir Tasting on the way back, but Eddie had reached his limit.  Not wine, but food and water changes over the last five days.  He is not the road warrior he once was…I thinking he was humming the Pepto Bismal theme song on the way home from the Falls.  I am feeling the fresh salmon fettuccine Alfredo at the Lodge did him in.  Eddie needed a serious nap and “me” time.  When we cruise, it is well known that Eddie likes an ad hoc “me” day if I have over programmed the days in port…same goes for pre and post touring days.  But Friends and family days, there is pressure to be present for all the events.  No “me” days.  Eddie pulled the sick ticket, “me” ticket.  Eddie’s head was on the pillow by 3:30.  He did not resurface until this morning.  

Post mid afternoon time, the remaining adult group went to Lake Oswego and had a wonderful dinner followed by the best ice cream at Salt and Straw.  Apparently, everyone else thought so too.  The people maze in the store said this was more than a popular place.  Wild flavors to include, fig and Brie, black tea with molten chocolate and blackberries, champagne custard and strawberry-this is not Marble Slab or BR 31.  Blue Bell take notes, this place has you beat hands down.    I opted for the sea salt caramel ribbon.  Trying to be good on some level, I went for a kid’s scoop.  I could have eaten the pint that was in the freezer case.  Glad this is not in the ‘hood.  I considered bring Eddie some as this was a highlight, but, when you pull a sick ticket, you get no ice cream love from me.  Besides after our walk around to Lake O and back to the car, the in store maze queue was full and the line was extending down the sidewalk.  

What was scheduled to be a train day, has turned into a plane day.  Eddie and I were packed and on the curb by 10:25 for our Borg Lyft to PDX.  Oh yeah, gas is $6.00ish a gallon here, and it is a wait for the gas attendant to pump your gas affair.    No, not full service, they probably do not know how to check your dipstick or tire pressure, but it is an Oregon law that gas must be pump by an attendant…not safety, just law that got past to protect the service station workers.  Did not know they had a lobby.  Keeping in weird in Oregon…Austin, you are behind on this one.  

Glad to be going home….just not the hot weather part.  Always glad to go and see how there rest of the world (or US) is doing, but Dorothy is clicking her ruby red slippers in coach saying “there is no place like home, there is not place like home”.

Sunny Saturday Seattle with a side of Starbucks

Before our cruise adventure began, we had two wonderful visits and meals with our Houston friends, Dick and Cain.  We have texted each other during the cruise plotting our 48 hour return to Seattle post cruise.  On Friday, about the time we were drying out our umbrellas from the ferry ride and robbery (aka cab ride), Carolyn texted that Saturday looked to be a wash out and they could come get us for lunch or dinner.  I asked Frank how he felt about the Seattle weatherman’s forecast for rain all day, and Frank said he was thinking clear skies through Monday.  I texted Carolyn that we were thinking of sleeping late and going to the Space Needle and Chihuly Glass museum on the Monorail if it wasn’t raining too bad.  She said they would plan on a late lunch early dinner in town so we could see each other again.

Saturday arrived with a hint of blue in the sky which made me hopeful that the day would not be rainy nor gray.  I guess you don’t realize that these far northern parts of the US(to include Alaska) have a lot more hours of sunlight…be it gray or rainy.  Light coming into your window does not necessarily mean it is time to get up.  Hello, 3:59 AM sunrise.  Eddie and I never saw an Alaskan sunset-it happened too late in the evening or if we were up, too foggy.  So, I was up asking Frank-if we would get to visit the Glass Garden or would it be an inside visit with umbrellas in between.  Eddie slept in…surprise? By 10:30 the sky was blue, and we were happily eating breakfast and getting ready to head to the Monorail.  

For you of a certain age the Monorail, the Space Needle and the park area in that area were the site of the 1962 World’s Fair.  Before we became so globally intertwined and flying to another continent so common place, the world came to various locations every four years.  Kinda like the Olympics for cultural, technology and food.  I remember Mom coming in 1962 and coming home with stories of the futuristic Monorail, the Space Needle and all the exhibits.  It has been 60 years since that World’s Fair (now referred to as Expo).  The Needle has had a recent face lift and does not look a day over 45.  The Monorail concrete rails are original but the station (and there are only two) and cars are much more modern.  The Monorail only goes from the Westlake Center to the Park area, above ground, every 10 minutes.  Most of the hotels are in the Westlake Belltown area, so makes sense.  Houston would have done well to follow this example, sure ground laid track is cheaper, but these trains don’t fight for right of way with cars or pedestrians.  

By 11:30 we were touring the Chihuly Glass Museum and Gardens.  For you not familiar with Dave Chihuly’s work, you can Google it.  For those who don’t want to bother, think Belligo’s colorful glass ceiling, the outdoor Murano glass sculptures, and Bill & Hill’s favorite artist…read-if you are reading this, you can’t afford to have one in your home or garden.  Each of the rooms of the museum was a different evolution of his art form.  After blowing the glass ornament on the ship, Eddie and I understand more of what it took to produce each piece.  The color, the floor to ceiling towers of color, the fragile nature of the glass itself and the way it is done changed glass designs forever.  The gardens were lush with plants and flowers but a riot of glass forms, spheres and orbs that was both whimsical and beautiful.  Dick said later that he has never seen so much as a speck of dust due to the clean air filters.  Hmmm, a white glove moment, man after my own heart. While we weren’t alone in  The museum or garden areas, we sat through the various short films in the theatre that explained his technique and inspirations.  The theatre kinda sorta exits into the gift shop area…but when have you ever known a museum to not empty into a gift shop.  It as then we realized that everyone not on a cruise ship was right here right now.  Sunshine on a Saturday in Seattle…yup,skateboards, dogs, assorted bizarre people…shoulder, shoulder.    Carolyn said later that until March this was a by reservation only, mask required inside and out, no loitering.  The restaurants and cafes that are noted on the map are still closed due to staffing issues.  So, food and drink was pretty much limited to some sketchy street vendors and the gift shops.  The open walkways had street performers, to include an old Japanese fellow on an electric Japanese stringed instrument.  Eddie decided he must have stolen it from someone or he got it at the pawn shop.  Eddie was tempted to pay him not to play.  By 2:30 we had seen how Seattle has transformed the 1962 space into a wonderful urban green space…with lots of people. I mean lots of people, despite being one of the last places to emerge from the Covid Cocoon….Chihuly glass makes for one pretty butterfly.

Making the commute from Redmond, Dick and Carolyn picked us up and we enjoy a few more hours over dinner and laughter.  The friends part of this trip is probably my favorite.  Chicken soup for your soul.  Our ride back to the hotel took us through the University of Washington Campus, thanks Google Maps, just in time to see all the college graduates and parents walking towards the parking lots.  The smiling faces on both told the story of two long years in a college experience that was like no other in history.  The faces shined with hope and resilience. 

Good way to end a sunny day in Seattle.  Before letting us out, Dick and Carolyn insisted that they come on Sunday morning and take us to the train station.  Yeah, we decided to take the 4 hour train ride from Seattle to Portland for the final FF stop.  Train got the call due to the crazy cost of car rental, $6.00+ a gallon gas charge or the 6 hour hassle of airport to airport door to door hassle.  Ed and I hate to impose on people, but you know the Cains, hospitality with a capital H.  We reluctantly agreed.  

I was up early, and decided that I needed what Amy Cain calls the “Starbucks Experience”.  After being in Seattle for more morning coffees than usual, we have determined that the hoopla over the various Seattle branded coffees are clearly marketing gimmicks.  We have had the room coffee maker coffee with curated keurig cups of organic, fair traded, sustainable blah blah blah with powdered creamer-seriously, with the price of these rooms in Downtown Seattle you could at least have the liquid caps of coffeemate.  I guess I was have ship board cappuccino withdrawals.  So, I consulted Starbucks App to find  the “Location” near me.  600 feet away, .04 miles away, or .06 miles away-yeah, there is one on every corner, but is it open at 7:00 on a Sunday?    I invested the dime to call and found the one 600 feet away was indeed open.  While I could have done the on trend mobile app ordering, Eddie wanted a little something, something, which says I needed to look at what they were planning on nuking in the microwave before deciding.  Eddie is decidedly a sweet roll or breakfast sandwich guy, not the hard boiled egg with day old carrot stick guy.  Under threatening skies (Frank,only got a 50/50 on the forecast) - I scurried down the 600 feet to the open Starbucks.  The door was opened by a taser armed security guard, flanked by the yellow shirted Seattle Bicycle patrol cop that had dispersed the 6 teen skateboarders ( which begs the question, do your parents know where your are?) Apparently, I am not in the Kingwood Starbuck… there are 10 others were either in line to order, or waiting for the barista to call their name that their low fat almond milk low foam extra grande latte with a double pump of sugar free vanilla was ready.  Eddie and I are simple folk, 2 - 16 oz Pikes Peak Regular Coffee, add half and half with 3 each stevia (that is the green one), because apparently Seattle has outlawed the pink stuff…we have not seen it since we left the ship.    We will have a couple of the breakfast sausage sandwiches, not the impossible meat breakfast sandwiches to go.  While waiting in line, our security detail was aroused into action.  A street resident had managed a ten dollar bill…and admission to the building.  6 feet of social distancing was not a problem for the rest of the folks in line.  He looked like a kid in the candy store…he eyed the food options, and the coffee options, weighing each against his crisp new bill. His friend on the sidewalk was still looking for a willing benefactor.  He finally decided on a small coffee, and two breakfast sandwiches, no change.  Leaving the Starbucks, his buddy wanted to see if I was a generous benefactor…the security guard suggested I was not a good option.  I returned to the hotel.  Using the keycard to gain door access, sloshing said cup of Starbucks on my clean shirt, rats.  Well, check the total Covid Starbuck Seattle experience off my list.  I will dyi a Cafe Pickle, it is a Starbucks Experience that we have come to appreciate while being gone.   Besides, we always have the pink stuff and half and half. 

Friends and Family

When I restarted writing my travel adventures this go around, I mentioned that we on the PNW (Pacific Northwest) Friends and Family tour post cruise time.  There a lot of moving parts to this, age groups and methods of transportation involved, so do try and keep up.  Despite having his own spread sheet, Eddie ask daily who we are seeing and how we are going to get there….Covid season has not been kind to Eddie’s calendar keeping ability.  We left our ship home by 8:00 Saturday morning…along with all the passengers from our ship, the RCCL Ovation was letting there 4,000 guests off in the same space. Solstice luggage to left, Ovation to the right, buses to left, private cars and limos to right, with the Uber, Lyft and traditional cab stand 2 blocks away. We had been warned that the cost of Uber and Lyft has gotten crazy high, that a regular cab could be hard to come by. You see where this is going….Eddie is not a bus kinda guy, nor am I seeing him dragging 4 suitcases two blocks for a ride in a Prius. I have kept the cell number of car and driver from our embarkation day.  I phoned my new friend with a name I could not pronounce even without a mask and he was more than glad to meet us at the #2 pick up point.   I know why there are no black Tahoes, Yukon and Suburbans for purchase, they are all hanging out at the cruise port in Seattle looking for paying customers.  It was wild!  Dozens of uncontracted Black Shiny vehicles looking for cruiser love.  With all of the rain here, they must spend afternoon on cruise days (which is 7 days a week in season) washing and buffing their rides.  Glad there is not shortage of water (we are looking at you, California) here.  The signage clearly states that solicitation of passengers is prohibited and you will be prosecuted.  Covid rules, baby, Covid rules, cash talks.  The various drivers were paying the security police to solicit passengers and look the other way when they blocked traffic.  Our driver arrived and motioned the security away and indicated he would not be paying them for securing us.  Pure cock of the walk.  He waited while we dropped our luggage and checked in a the Mayflower Park, he took us to the ferry terminal and showed us how to get a taxi back to the hotel when we returned.  Cautioned us not to arrive after dark as the waterfront and the ferry terminal construction was not a safe place for us old people.  Guess we shouldn’t talk to strangers, either.  Seattle butt powdering comes at a high price $85 for maybe 45 minutes of driving….kinda like the water taxis in Venice.    Oh yeah, his Square charge thingy never works…$85 cash.  Good Grief.  

Between the construction and vague signage, we managed to get on the correct ferry for 9:35 AM run of the Tacoma.  I had downloaded the app, so I at least knew time and vessel.  The skies had cleared and we could see the cruise ships we had left two hours ago getting ready for the next groups of passengers.  While we have been to Seattle several times, we have never taken the ferry to any of the other cities, and never to Bainbridge.  It is enchanting.  I have read a series of murder mystery that the protagonist is based on BI.  She paints word pictures, but it does not do it justice.  A tad like Cape Cod -framed house lined up along the water front, but the trees, woods and flowers are beautiful, especially this time of the year.  We were greeted by  my very tall and good looking nephew (no bias there, he reminds me of pictures of my dad) Daniel, and his youngest child-Blakely.  We wandered the streets of Winslow and peeked into the various shops.  Daniel confessed that he had never been in most of these shops…he and his wife Megan have Blakely (1) and 3 boys 3,5, and almost 8.  Yeah, stores with glass things  or candy and boys never ends well. Very laid back vibe-most had dogs, shorts, sandals and a hoodie.  Apparently, it is the uniform of Seattle….some form of hoodie…covers a lot of bad hair days due to rain, I guess.    Us, Texans brought our sleeveless fleece vest, guess old tourists.  We had a lunch of fresh salmon and cod…really fresh, like it slept in the surrounding waters last night.  Daniel was a wonderful tour guide as we made a loop of the island and got home in time for the middle boys to arrive home from preschool.  Their back yard is a lush green affair with grass, woods, forts, trees to climb, a garden, and of course, mud…it rains a lot here…or so I have been told.  It is a couple of acres that allow these boys to have adventures but still be visible from the kitchen window and not too far that we could not hear them if they were hurt themselves.  I always wonder how these kind of places will be remembered when they get old…like 25, or so.    If one of the kids becomes a writer, this place is gold.    By the time Brody (8) arrived home, we were one step back out the door headed for our afternoon ferry back to the Emerald City.  The boys had baseball practice and a party-as life with kids should be, Blakely had napped on our car trip, so she was good to go.    Thankful for the moment…

Our return trip was easy, as we knew what to expect…except the part about a rain storm just about the time we were getting off the ferry.  Oh yeah, Frank (KPRC weather app) let me know it was raining at my current location.  Yeah, Frank, got my umbrella.  Almost as helpful as the Alert Houston Message of Extreme Heat in Houston this weekend.  Glad we are here for a few more days.  With our umbrellas, we made our way to the taxi stand.  Two taxis, no drivers…and it is raining.  The first driver arrived at his Green Taxi Prius.  Asked where we were going.  We told him, including the address…it is about 2.5 miles away…rain…no walking.  He had to think about it.  We started to turn and see if the second taxi was anymore eager for a rider.  He said, “Fine”.  We climbed into his #1032 Green Taxi,with his license visible, and the window sticker clearly stating the meter charges and zone charges.  He turns to Ed and says in a heavy accent with mask, 1-2.  Ed says, “Pardon” he says 1-2.  I countered with use the meter as per the window tag.  Driver replied in broken English, “no meters, gas too high”.  Seriously, get a new sticker or a upcharge sticker.  We were about to get out and go to cab #2, but he said he would take $10.  We got to the hotel in 15 minutes or less, traffic was actually heavy, and it was raining.  Eddie did not tip the driver….and I did not report him to his company or the Taxi police, but I was tempted.  

Most of the rest of Seattle and BI are “cashless”-meaning you don’t leave home without your credit or debit cards, cause they don’t take paper money or coins….unless you want to take a ride in car, then you better have cash…$20 bills are preferred.  Glad Eddie had correct change on the way home, Green Taxi guy would have told him No change…

Beautiful Day in the Neighborhood

Boy, Mother Nature (and Alaska) sure knows how to kiss and make up.  After the case of the MIA glacier, which we were not the only ones who missed the asterisk in the description of Dawes-in conversations with others, they missed the memo, too.    We spent yesterday in Skagway, the gateway to the Klondike Gold Rush in the late 1890s.  We arrived at 7:00 AM in heavy pea soup fog, which did not bode well for our planned excursion.   We have been here before, while they have added puppy time with dog sled teams, the highlight has to be the White Pass & Yukon Railway.  And yes, we had a 1:00 excursion time, no early morning things, remember?  Despite the fog, the helicopters and float planes were buzzing back and forth in the harbor area. Nope, nope, nope fog plus small flying things with mountains equal a big no thanks in my book.    There were four ships docked, 2 Princess ships, one Holland America and Celebrity.  The Holland America ship had the handicapped slot closest to town, Celebrity was docked at the furthest mooring from the shopping area.  As the tourist season is short, they were more than willing to allow you to pay the $3 per person to go to and from the town area.  As the morning wore on, the fog lifted, but the skies were still the gray that has shadowed us since Seattle.  Back to our planned excursion-It is 3 hours of breath taking beauty in a replica rail car on a well maintained small gage track (thank goodness because several times it literally hangs off the edge of the mountain side).  While you could have biked up the 15 miles or so, rising to 7,500 and waving to the Canadian Border, it is much more relaxing to take the train and you did not have to pack your passport and phone with the ArriveCan app loaded with your vaccine status.  This was my third time on the train.  My past two trips were in May 2002 and July 2010, it was green with the slightest hint of snow on the peaks of the granite mountain tops.  Mother Nature pulled a fast one, and there on the ground, even at lower elevations was a snow pack. That would be global warming at work, right?  When I first saw it at a distance, I assumed that it was gravel for the railway bed.  Guess I need to put new glasses on my things to do list.    What we missed in Tidewater glaciers we more than made up for in valley glaciers today.  The guides on the train who are often regular seasonal workers remarked that they have never in their lives seen the snow pack last this long.  There were some areas that had 20 feet high snow packs beside the track.  As we started our ascent into the mountains,  blue skies began to break through the gray.  I had to change to sunglasses the glare off the snow was blinding.  The Skagway river that flanks the train journey was swollen and wild due to the late snow melt.  Raw and beautiful glacier clouded water splashing and swirling as it came down mountain to the valley floor.  Usually we have the one waterfall of Bridal Veil and some wet rocks as we climb, this time there were many more small water falls, so numerous and not normal that the guide’s script did not include them.  You had to be camera ready at all times.  The difference in our 2002 and 2010 photos of the same places were pretty much interchangeable, but these are completely different.  These had brilliant crisp blue skies, the last remnants of spring green growth in the hardwoods and the white of the snow.  Yeah, apologies accepted.  

Where is the Ice?

Okay, we all know that we decided to take this cruise to Alaska on somewhat of a whim.  Eddie’s whining, my kitchen burn out, and both of our desires to travel to some place cooler.  Yeah, we get Frank’s weather updates for Houston-100 forecast for this weekend….it is 50 degrees here-locals are in shorts.   Glad we are hanging with the PNW homies for another 10 days.  We are on the friends and family tour.  So, we knew which cruise line we wanted to take and time frame.  While we have been known to sleep around with other cruises lines, we typically sail Celebrity.  We are only a few more cruises from their top level Zenith frequent cruiser level.  It use to be according to number of nights on board, now they have multipliers based on nights and coins spent on reservations.  With the more all inclusive sailings these days, elite plus gets you not much more than free bags of laundry.  Zenith you get a free cruise.  I guess you can call that a retirement goal.  

I booked our current cruises without much research as to the Glacier, which of course is the highlight of any trip to Alaska.  Seen one tidewater glacier, you have seen them all, right?  We have seen Glaciers in Canada, Montana, and most all the ones in Alaska, so Dawes sounded good, especially when it suggested that there a ton of wildlife present in the Endicott Arm which is the 30 mile approach to the Glacier.  Either we missed the asterisk by Dawes Glacier or global warming is a bigger threat that we have been led to believe.  Eddie and I got up at 5:00 this morning.  Yeah, that does not happen often, especially on a cruise. I used the glass/water/ice tray to go upstairs and get four cups of coffee and some croissants since Room Service does not start until 6:00.  The fog was thick, the ice chunks few,  as we started the run toward glacier.  The much touted wildlife was a no show.  The sheer granite walls rising from the water, the waterfalls and the clouds hanging in the various mountains gave it an eery quality-almost like a black and white photo with the glacier green blue water the only color in the shot.  The rain steadily increased as the time went on.  The phone blinked a message that our morning helipad vantage point to the glacier had been cancelled due to rain and safety precautions.  By 7:15 we had come to a complete stop.  We assumed the glacier was on the other side of the ship.  Being glacier pros, and all, we knew the ship would pivot and it would be our turn next, no need to run to the 15th floor to get a better view….and it was really raining now.  We turned on the TV set to the navigational channel to see what on the other side.  Oops, where the beef, I mean the glacier?  Motoring up beside us are two excursion boats, kinda like the one we took yesterday. Unlike Hubbard and Glacier Bay, there was no Congo line of cruises lines ahead or behind us-red flag.      There was an announcement that those that had excursion tickets were to report to the appropriate deck.  We grabbed our 20 year old Alaskan Cruise Guide for a glacier map.  Yup, right here on the map is two arms of the Dawes Glacier.  Looks like global warming had either dried up our arm or my map skills are not as good as they use to be.  Covid must have been rough on the glaciers, too.   The excursion vessels took off up the ice clogged other arm.  I guess if we could not go on the helipad, the huge icebergs in the narrow channel arm was a big cruise ship no go.  See Titanic for details.   Gee, missed the asterisk warning that you don’t actually see, hear or watch the glacier calving unless you pay the extra $500 for the excursion.  Pregame fail on our part….but I will blame Eddie as he was in charge of excursions.  He said we could watch the glacier from the balcony, and he made reservations at the #1 restaurant in Juneau-which is our afternoon stop-so Eddie.  Frank says it is going to rain in Juneau this afternoon, 100%, so grabbing the shuttle bus and walking the couple blocks might not happen.  Last times here we saw the two glaciers in that neighborhood.  

As we were one of the few in the restaurant for breakfast, I kinda think the rest of the folks on board missed the asterisk, too.  I am waiting for our exit to the Endicott Arm before grabbing my shower.  Eagle eye Eddie spotted a sea lion in the water, so far that is the only wildlife we have seen this morning.  Perhaps the rest of the wildlife is sleeping in due to the weather.  

Glad we have seen glaciers before…I almost have gotten enough glacier visits to complete my Glacier Merit Badge…can’t decided if I can count Dawes.  Maybe I just note it with the asterisk.  Lesson learned, not all glaciers are the same.  Do your own homework-don’t rely on others when making choices about cruises excursions.  Control stick issue.  

Alaskan Bingo

Okay, for you folks at home playing along with Pickles in Alaska, if you had pod of Orcas, Humpback Whale sighting, Salmon in the wild, Bald Eagle, Clam Chowder, King Crab Legs, and Eddie gets a Blow Job, you can bubble in those squares on your bingo card.  

Just like the 5:00 news, I will wait until almost the end to tell you about Eddie’s blow job.  No reading ahead, that would be cheating.  Everyone’s card had the pristine scenery, snow covered mountain tops, and verdant green forests.  So, we will skip reviewing those things.  Twenty years later, the natural beauty of Alaska still is some of our favorite.  After going to Norway, Chile, and Iceland with all the natural raw fjordian beauty-Alaska is still our favorite.  We started this adventure in Ketchikan.  It use to be a tendered port, but somewhere along the way it has gone from a sleepy little town with lots of Diamond International shops to a much more tourist savvy destination-with multiple deep water berths, town side.  Float planes dot the skies.  Three ships in port-Ruby Princess and Carnival Splendor and Celebrity Solstice.  For those of you unfamiliar with Alaska cruising-Princess created the market and the infrastructure.  Carnival, Princess and Holland are the same parent corporation. All other cruises companies get what is left as far as tour priority, berths in port and access to Glacier Bay.  We are at the beginning of the tourist season, despite three ships, the town people are all smiles and more than happy to take your money.  No shortage of workers either.  Guess Covid made them count their blessings for folks on cruise ships.  No supply chain shortages for t shirts and stuffed animals.  Must have had left overs for two years with no tourists.  Check off T shirts, stuffed Alaskan animals, and Christmas ornaments on your bingo board.  Yeah, we purchased two for our collection, made in China, I am sure.    

When selecting our excursion for the day, Eddie said no early morning tours, no zodiac boats (too rough on his back), I countered with no float planes and open boats since this is the most Northern Rain Forest with 13 feet of rain a year on 300 out of 365 semi wet or really wet days.  We decided on the 11:00 boat trip to Misty Fjord with wildlife encounter.  Remember the part about Princess and Carnival in the port with us, well, apparently their folks called dibs on the 11:00 run, we got the 7:45 slot.  7:45 and we gained an hour last night, so 8:45 new old time…we could live with that.  This is my third trip into Ketchikan, it is always overcast with heavy clouds in the morning-reason #18 I will not take a float plane.  1-18 reasons revolve around fear of flying and the recent number of tourist float planes that just drop out of the air or crash into the mountains.  The fear of flying is strong in me when there are propellers, bad weather and sea birds involved.  As we motored out, Eddie spotted the tell tale puff from a whale’s blow hole followed by the back fins of the humpback splashing the water.  Our on board naturalist, Care, (yeah, Care is her name, I did not misspell it) was barely through her self introduction.  She was a recent graduate of UC Monterey Bay in Marine ecology-Like, you know, totally.  She used impressive professional college terms like eeewk, yucky, gross and sucky to describe the various Alaska species that we might encounter.  Eddie hit the mental mute button after the first uh,uh, uh, totally in her presentation.  He can be such a snob.  If you had Eddie as a intellectual snob, you can mark that square on your bingo board.  Misty Fjords did not disappoint-the skies broke blue just as we entered the waterfall portion of the Fjords.  Waterfall -check.  I had on polarized sunglasses and was treated my own private color show-the various minerals in the stone and granite showed colors of pink, blue, purple and yellow.  Eddie missed the show cause he has Transitions.  We saw no less than a dozen bald eagles in flight, in pairs and one rather large nest with no one at home.  The salmon have begun the run so there were some salmon rolling top water was we returned to the dock area.  By far the favorite was a pod of 20 Orcas that appeared close to land where we had seen the fish (and a large number of fishing boats). They were playing with the young calves and each other, we would see groups of 4 and 5 breaking the water together.  Never gets old or less exciting.  

We returned to the dock and decided that we wanted to try some King Crab or Dungess Crab at a local restaurant.  We had heard from some of the crew that King Crab is crazy expensive.  It you had $60 for one crab leg on your card, you get to color that space in, use a green marker.    While we don’t remember Clam Chowder being a big thing before, it is now.  We had it in Seattle, on the excursion boat and at the restaurant for lunch.  Eddie said they give you chowder to make up for the small amount of crab.  It is all good-I guess clams are still plentiful and cheap…that or they are cutting up rubber bands and putting it in potato soup to feed the tourists.    

Now for Eddie’s blow job.  A few of the Celebrity ships have Glass works on board.  Yes, the hot ovens, long rods, and Molten glass.  Would love to been in that planning meeting when they decided that a Glass Blowing operation should be included in their ship designed.  Red hot oven, melting glass, in rough seas letting people that have an unlimited liquor package dyi their souvenirs.  What could go wrong there.  We all know Eddie has a creative side to him, so before I left home, I signed him up to make a object d’ art-code for another Christmas Ornament while we were sailing the Alaskan coast.  Since this is not our first rodeo, we secured an 11:00 in the morning (remember, no early morning activities) for our second day on board.  There is a lot of hand holding by the professional glass blower.  But Eddie got to choose he colors, melt the glass beads in the oven,  blow the molten glass on the long metal rod—- several times causing the phallic shaped glass blob-yes it was red- to form a bubble which he then stretched.  So, blow job at sea.  Check that off your list.  

Tomorrow is an early morning….5:30 AM approach to Endicott Fjord and Dawes Glacier.  This is the fourth glacier I have been to in the Alaskan Basin in the various trips…no repeats.  We will start early on our Balcony and go to the Helipad at 7:15 for an exclusive vantage point.  Only the best for our Eddie.  We can nap in the afternoon.  Oh yeah, if you had Eddie taking a nap this afternoon, you can color that square in.  Anyone got Bingo yet?