We boarded the Amtrak Coast Starlight at 9:20 (Sunday-give me a break, I have been busy). While the train goes from Seattle to LA, we detrained in Portland. I get to add Oregon to my states visited, Eddie has been there done that, visit my niece and her family and hang out for a few days with my sister and brother law, so nice way to drop a pin or four in Oregon.
At some point over the weekend, I realized that we should just fly back to Houston from Portland rather than returning on the train, staying over a night at the scenic Sea-Tac airport Hilton and flying to Houston on Thursday. What we will do for a low cost business class seat these days. At last check, there are flights direct from Portland to Houston. So, I spent the better part of the trip modifying our travel arrangements. There had been a lot of moving parts when we first started these plans, I guess I just did not retrace my steps on final…out of practice, Covid brain, getting too old for this stuff, you pick. Back to changing our return. Tricky, as the modern trains here in US do not have Wi-Fi…so last century. So, spotty cell service it is. As the announcer said before leaving King Station Seattle, our trip was supposedly some of the most scenic in the US. They even have a park ranger on board in the Vista car to point out the high points. Gee, those high points must have happened south of the Portland stops. While there were some scenic areas with trees, mountains and a river or two, there was a lot of empty warehouse space, graffiti, recycling operations, graffiti, trash and homeless encampments. Did I mention graffiti? I know that the West Coast is a little more “progressive” in what constitutes a national park or treasure, but a Park Ranger on board seemed a little excessive for what we were seeing out the windows. Or is this the way to “defund the police” but still have a person in uniform on board? Thinking outside the box, for sure.
We had been warned that the passenger trains don’t necessarily run on schedule, as they must yield the rails to freight trains…supply chain issues trump warm bodies on vacation. It was Sunday, so no delays. We rolled into Portland under the same rains gray skies that were with us in Seattle. The Union Station Portland is located by the Greyhound Bus Terminal and the Homeless “solution” camp…these are 8x8 temporary to permanent closets…lots of them in a fenced in park. As there were plenty of others sleeping in doorways, I don’t think the solution was for everyone. After last summer’s Portland nocturnal activities (read riots) the downtown area is an empty shell of its form self. Seattle, she is still intact and shiny just empty of worker bees. Portland has a more abandoned forever empty look. Sad. But as we all know those of us that survived the 1960s and 70s demonstrations and unrest (again, read riots), history tends to repeat itself…and cities return. The Cains had successfully handed us off to my sister Kathy and her husband, Eric for the Portland visit. Kathy has always said that Seattle is a pretty white collar area, with Portland having a more blue collar vibe-actually she said more of a carnie worker vibe, but that would be Portland insensitive and we might be asked to leave if we said it out loud. Sister be spot on in her descriptive vocabulary.
Kathy (and Eric) have actually spent a great deal of time in both Seattle and Portland in the last years…adult children with grandchildren tend to promote that kind of behavior…along with Covid travel restrictions. They speak fluent PNW, and are comfortable with the roads and things to see and do. Kinda like a cruise ship, we were presented with the various options to include the historic town Astoria on the coast, Cannon Beach with its icon rock formation with Nantucket meets Carmel beach front shops and galleries, the Columbia Brand Factory Outlet for Employees store-a special for AARP card holders in June, Tillamonk Cheese Factory and visitor center with Surfside Beach, wine tasting-just pick red or white, Mount Hood, Columbia River Gorge and Vista house, Multnomah Falls National Park with lunch at the Historic Lodge built in the early 1900s. We opted for the National Park Passport moment (yeah, we are total nerds), Columbia River Gorge, with Cannon Beach, lunch and shopping, with a side order of dinner with our Niece’s family over the course of our two and a half days. Sunday evening was spent with Lindsay and her family (Jeff and 2 & 4 year old boys). A backyard picnic with fire in June…what could be better. Oh, by the way,, the Portland fam have serious gardening skills. Her tomato plants are so numerous it could actually be the fresh tomato section at H-E-B. I wish.
We talked to Frank about what would be the best timing, since the rain that has closed parts of Yellowstone National Park recently was here before we came,…and the remains bands have made our days full of splash and dash moments. We decided the Cannon Beach/Columbia Store day would best suit Monday’s forecast and The Falls and Gorge would be a good Tuesday activity. The Oregon coast and the Columbia River are actually super close activities from Portland. Think Houston to Galveston or Houston to Brenham…and just like Houston depending on traffic about an hour.
We started our day at 9:00, for a short drive to Beaverton and the factory outlet. Yeah, I know, but Kathy and I love a good deal, so an employees factory outlet was going to be one of our stops. Columbia has the Prana, MountainGear and Sorel brands, too-so Eddie was game for some new shirts that were short sleeved, non Hawaiian or tee shirt material…the store was so big that he even did his own shopping…shocker, I know. I figured him for the bench in front of the store kinda guy, but he was all in. I think it was the gourmet coffee we had while we waited for the store to open. Apparently, Portland likes to lay claim to being a coffee mecca -there are more independent coffee houses in Oregon than nail bar in Texas. After my Starbucks experience, I would have to say Oregon’s indie coffee is better….and they did not have a security guard, or a digit lock bathroom. Eddie liked the plate sized warmed cinnamon roll, too. Sugar and Caffeine, Eddie’s morning drugs of choice. By 11:15 we were headed to the coast… after we did our best to stimulate the Oregon economy. Cannon Beach has the iconic Haystack rock just off the shore line-you know the one that is in all the pictures when someone says Oregon Coast. The Beach is wide and sandy, but the outdoor temps in the low 50s with grey skies, with us in the rain jackets, we made our photo memories and retreated to the restaurant on the beach with the view of the rock and had a seafood lunch. What would a beach visit be without the bag of salt water taffy? At least that and the Christmas ornament hunt gave us a sense of purpose as we strolled the shops. Seafoam candy-got an assortment of that, too. A honeycomb inside -kinda like butterfinger, but not, with white, milk or dark chocolate. Interesting, not sure if I am going to Pinterest the recipe. Eddie opted for 1-1/2 pounds of Taffy. Glad we have some dental insurance, Woody needs us old guys to show up for new crowns and bridge works, routine cleanings just keep the lights on.
Tuesday’s weather could be blue to grey in a matter in minutes. Lots of lush scenery from the highway, but even more adventure (read hairpin narrow turns up and down mountains) if you take the Historical Highway. If you planned your visit to the National Park-which of course we did, this is a Borg/Pickle tour-you had to advance purchase parking/passage at the Falls ($2 for middle of the interstate parking-and access to the under the road tunnel) and on the Historical highway. Planners and rule obeyers, so we did that but no one checked. Eric was sporting a US Paratroopers ball cap (not that he was)…guy told us that Vets are free. Yeah, Eddie and Eric both can claim that status, but the ball cap was all the proof needed for the guard. Did I mention that Eric is way up in the 6 foot and multiple inches something range? Guard looked up at Eric and waved us in. The Falls are the second tallest in the US…it was awesome. With all the rain, the cascade over the upper falls was intense. There is a path to the an upper bridge that is great for photos, if you don’t mind wet underwear and cameras. We opted for picture from the lower areas and dry tightie whities…if would make for a long ride home. We had lunch at the 100+ year old lodge restaurant. It reminded us of the various stone and beamed lodges that are part of the National Parks. Post lunch we opted for the butt tingling adventure up the historic highway to Vista point that over looks the Columbia River Gorge. There are stops along the way-waterfall, scenic vista and surprisingly more than a few old homes and farms. We were thankful for the skies that threatened rain, but never delivered.
Eric was lobbying for a Pinot Noir Tasting on the way back, but Eddie had reached his limit. Not wine, but food and water changes over the last five days. He is not the road warrior he once was…I thinking he was humming the Pepto Bismal theme song on the way home from the Falls. I am feeling the fresh salmon fettuccine Alfredo at the Lodge did him in. Eddie needed a serious nap and “me” time. When we cruise, it is well known that Eddie likes an ad hoc “me” day if I have over programmed the days in port…same goes for pre and post touring days. But Friends and family days, there is pressure to be present for all the events. No “me” days. Eddie pulled the sick ticket, “me” ticket. Eddie’s head was on the pillow by 3:30. He did not resurface until this morning.
Post mid afternoon time, the remaining adult group went to Lake Oswego and had a wonderful dinner followed by the best ice cream at Salt and Straw. Apparently, everyone else thought so too. The people maze in the store said this was more than a popular place. Wild flavors to include, fig and Brie, black tea with molten chocolate and blackberries, champagne custard and strawberry-this is not Marble Slab or BR 31. Blue Bell take notes, this place has you beat hands down. I opted for the sea salt caramel ribbon. Trying to be good on some level, I went for a kid’s scoop. I could have eaten the pint that was in the freezer case. Glad this is not in the ‘hood. I considered bring Eddie some as this was a highlight, but, when you pull a sick ticket, you get no ice cream love from me. Besides after our walk around to Lake O and back to the car, the in store maze queue was full and the line was extending down the sidewalk.
What was scheduled to be a train day, has turned into a plane day. Eddie and I were packed and on the curb by 10:25 for our Borg Lyft to PDX. Oh yeah, gas is $6.00ish a gallon here, and it is a wait for the gas attendant to pump your gas affair. No, not full service, they probably do not know how to check your dipstick or tire pressure, but it is an Oregon law that gas must be pump by an attendant…not safety, just law that got past to protect the service station workers. Did not know they had a lobby. Keeping in weird in Oregon…Austin, you are behind on this one.
Glad to be going home….just not the hot weather part. Always glad to go and see how there rest of the world (or US) is doing, but Dorothy is clicking her ruby red slippers in coach saying “there is no place like home, there is not place like home”.
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