If I could add the Cello and stringed opening Game of Thrones’ music to this posting I would, it just seems ever so appropriate for our visit to the Northern shores of Ireland. As we were on the Irish Sea, a mere 17 miles from the Scottish Coast on what the guide called an unusually clear day, we could see for miles. It was a spectacular day! Except for my hair part which with the wind looked more like Cersei’s hair after her walk of atonement...for those of you non GofT folks...read really bad short hair day. The opening shows all the lands of the Seven Kingdoms of the fantasy land created by George Martin and brought to life by HBO. If you look at that fantasy land of the seven kingdoms’ map in its entirety, the largest country area is actually Ireland if you rotate it 1/4 to the right. As loads of the action from the various years have been filmed in the winter here in the Belfast area, it has spawned a tourist industry that makes the centuries old natural landscape a Star performer. When I booked this trip sometime back I was vaguely aware, but as my research and touring plan materialized, I realized I planning a Game of Thrones Cruise. While not billed as such (dumb on part of cruise lines if they want to capture a younger market) it did not take long for me to realize that I better get up to speed on the show. George and Ed have read the original books of Martin and been fans since the beginning. George has helped us keep up with the characters (you almost need a genealogical spreadsheet as that can be difficult to keep up with-date of death should have number footnotes as it is always grizzly) , and parallels to some historical events that the fantasy is based on so unlike a lot of folks in our age group on board, we can speak GofT. However, we did not bring the appropriate attire to go full on...the heavy pelt coats would feel pretty good right now as it is barely above freezing.
When I vet my touring company, I typically go Best..as in Good-Better-Best. I have found that less than 5 stars on any reviewers website (and there are now so many) results in less than a memorable day. I contacted my Belfast touring selection and booked about a year ago. When I corresponded my list to the company, she shot back a note that said I would be taking the Game of Throne set tour. No, I explained I wanted to see these natural coastal places, not some hokey movie set. She explained that these places were the real movie sets. Okay, private car for two, deposit paid, GBP balance upon completion of tour. Got it. Oh yeah, please attempt to be first off the ship. Got it.
First off the ship, you say, with 3,000 people leaving the ship at same time of 11:00. Not a big problem, but know the whole Cork/Rinkaskiddy and lines into the Casino thing, we were in position at 10:00 and were rewarded by being the absolutely the first off the ship-after the water trolley was taken off at 10:35. That is how House Pickle rolls. We met our driver, Micheal-a very Irish blue eyed bloat, with a heavy Irish accent. The Northern Irish have a touch of Scottish brogue as the Scots came over the 17 miles of water and took lots of land back in the day (1600’s) much to the dismay of the Irish...but the Scots have influenced the dialect, for sure. Eddie is already hearing impaired, never mind a strong accent...and there is no close captioning for our tours, so I am the translator. Belfast and the Northern portion of Ireland (read Church of England) are separate from the other parts (read Irish Catholic). While the tensions of the old are not as visible now, the division still exist. Micheal was disowned by his family 22 years ago for marrying a Catholic...not even allow to attend his mother’s recent funeral. Micheal shared (with a great deal of pride, I might add) that he had served during the entire Belfast filming process (9 years of winter time, not touristy time) as a driver for the “individual” stars. As this was cast and support crews of literally thousands of people, almost every driver-bus, car or taxi- is able to make that claim. All were in Belfast, about a 75 minute drive south of this North Coastline. So, yeah, we picked Best...good call.
The heavy grey clouds, chilling wind in the Belfast port gave way to a pretty good rain storm....not like you all are having in Kingwood. Yeah, even with time difference, I am keeping up. 10 inches...wow. Michael said that Belfast can get rain, and the coast be dry...let’s hope so...I have already had wet underwear on this trip. The northern coast line is called the Coastal Causeway-think Pacific Coast Highway/Natchez Trace Parkway in Ireland. Lots of historical and natural sites, surround by the most beautiful hills of green grass pastures, small white stucco villages and farm houses, dairy cows (yeah, Kerrygold Irish butter and cheese-we are looking at you), sheep/lamb as it is spring and all, yellow gorse bushes, white May flowers (Hawthorne), Horse Chestnuts with white candle flower stems. The air here is “country fresh” as in manure and mown grass...takes some getting use to. It was as if someone flipped a switch, the rain stopped as we approached our first stop. This was the 18th century road to the home of James Stuart (not of Stuart of history, just farmer Stuart) with Beech trees planted by him that over the centuries have grown to form a tree tunnel...aka Dark Hedges or Kings Road. Michael dropped us off on one end and retrieved us in the other. The road has become so popular that it is now only for pedestrian, no buses allowed, along with no parking available. This is very similar to Oak Alley in the Mississippi River plantations, only Beech trees. Being a less committed fan than George or Ed, I was glad that Michael provided us with color photos of the scenes,being shot with who, when and where. Interesting comparing the real scenery with the film footage....as some of the trees have fallen and been knocked over in storms, the open spaces where digitally enhanced for the show. While the actual road is unchanged, there are “Game of Thrones” experiences around ever edge...there was a Dark Hedge Hotel, Bar and Experience just beyond, we had a Throne experience, but not the type they are charging for. Beer for Bathroom anyone?
From there to the Causeway, stopping along the beautifully roughed coast line, cliffs, dramatic rock formations, the Irish Sea, Scotland in the distance. It was a very memorable afternoon. The crowned jewel of the coastline is the Giants Causeway. Part of the National Historical Trust, the mile long hike rewards you with rocks formations that looked as if they had been formed by a stone mason...thousands of steps, columns of wave formed stone...like a pipe organ...only much bigger. While not part of the GofT, it was the big one on my list...and everyone else’s. Not as crowded as one would think, but still more like Yellowstone and Yosemite with number and nationalities of the folks coming to visit...read selfie sticks, Asian tourists. Here, Michael, who is a wee bit of a gossip had time to talk to the other drivers (bus, car, etc) that grabbing a coffee waiting for their guests...apparently Belfast drivers had lots of time to be chummy during the filming as they were on call for 15 hour days...not much to do but grab a cup of coffee...no beer during work hours....and gossip. Apparently, of all the buses that were gathered on the dock when we departed this morning, there were 4 buses from a company that had arranged to do a “private” not ship tour for 200 passengers. Well, turns out that bus company did not have the proper forms and paperwork to be on the dock for pick up...oops. So, that left 200 folks scrambling for plan B...and the Port Authorities voted the four buses off the island. Again, Good Better Best. That was a “good” plan that at last minute probably had to pay Best Pricing to correct. If you start with Best, you save the cost of good. Pickle logic.
During our day, we stopped at an Irish Pub that was gifted one of the carved wooden doors from the set. There are apparently 10, and they grace pubs and restaurants all over the coastline...there is a tour based in getting all those stamps...no opportunity is wasted here. Yes, they has the campy Game of Thrones pub area, but Michael taught us how to determine if we have had a “good draft beer”...it is all about the cream foam rings on the glass-similar to the wine legs,of red wine-and how to convert a lager drinker to a Guinness drinker. Kinda like a Black and Tan, but not more than a jigger of Guinness in with a lager, increasing the mixture each time. Hmmm, after a couple, my taste buds were numb...so I take a 1/2 pint of Guinness, please. Michael also shared the history behind Black and Tan—-and why you never order that in Ireland, call it a Half and Half. It is considered derogatory....look it up...I did.
As we drove at 90 mph back toward the ship, we were told that the tour companies of Belfast have an unwritten agreement to have all ship board guest returned to the docks by 4:30, or 3 hours prior to all aboard. Apparently, in an effort to “one up” each other, they would push the timeline...so...one day there was a Belfast moment...kinda a Houston traffic moment only in an area with 450,000 people and fewer roadways. Or a Kingwood moment yesterday, as friends have shared horror stories of trying to get down Northpark and Kingwood Drive yesterday! Yikes...Long story short, 300 passengers on the private/nonship tours missed the boat...and all the operators at their expense had to drive the 300 people to Dublin (97 miles south)...after that, they private operators take no chances. Good to know.
Know that current weekend forecast for Kingwood/Atascocita/Houston is not that good....I am thinking of you all, please be safe...don’t take risk with street flooding.
We are sailing to Iceland, there is a glaze of ice in the deck, winds have picked up and the outside doors have been closed to passengers...we are headed to the North Wall-Winter is Coming! More whales and possibly puffins...and Night Walkers.
No comments:
Post a Comment