Thursday, October 30, 2025

This is not a Holiday Inn Express

 Where to begin?  For those of you that travel internationally, hotel selection is an art form.  Of course, the internet, Expedia, and  Trip Advisor have made this a little less artsy and a little more scientific.  It is not always easy.  Booking our pre-cruise hotel always involves research on our part.  Given that Pope Francis declared 2025 a Papal Jubilee (read pilgrimage to Rome for the faithful) then the selection of an American Pope (Pope Leo), hotel selection was going to be expensive and competitive.  We booked 11 months ago.  While the American Branded hotels here are lovely and preferred (Looking at you sister, Kathy), the  competition for a room with cruisers and the faithful gives new meaning to plus, plus on room charges.  Besides Eddie does love a well researched boutique hotel.  Typically not as large as a cruising hotel, but oozes charm, history and individualized service…read advanced butt powdering.   I narrowed the selection down to a few near the Villa Borghese Park area.  It was up to Eddie to make the final selection and do the research on butt powdering.  He selected a property that was once a sprawling Villa, Vittorio Veneto.  Classic Italian rooms with stucco and mosaic touches backing up to the park, and a short walk to the inside of the old city walls.  As the Europeans like small beds, we upgraded to a Junior suite to insure at least two twins or a king sized bed.  We booked, prepaid, and secured with some effort the cruiser’s/international traveler coveted early arrival time.  Nothing says rookie like not being able to check into your room until 3:30 when they have you off the ship or plane at 8:30.  Somewhere over the summer, we received notification that our traditional luxury boutique hotel had been rebranded as nHow Roma.  A Quick Look at who that was indicated it is the same corporate entity that has the White Lotus (yes, HBO collagen lips Jennifer Coolidge, Sydney Sweeney, Patrick Schwarzenegger) property.  While we don’t watch WL, we are aware-being in the non Mouth Breathers cool old people club, and all.    Eddie was like “Yeah, Baby”.  I guess I failed to read the 200 emails they sent us about updating and refreshing, my bad.  


Fast forward to our arrival a nHow Roma at 10:30 on Wednesday morning.  We were greeted on the street level by the Valet, who directed the baggage to the bellman, and us down 7 steps to an elevator 500 feet away to the H floor for reception.  That is where traditional, luxury, historical made a true left turn into Soul Train meets 1970’s hippy college dorm room.  The reception area was purple with pink neon halos over the three reception podiums.  Forget those silly long desk with functional computers and credit card reader.  They were decorated with spider webs and large spiders, so forget a writing area.  Not sure if those where for Halloween or permanent decorations.  As the path to our junior suite was more like a maze, first time, they send someone with you.  No bag of bread crumbs to mark your trail…mental test for those of a certain age.  You  Board a pink elevator (you came down on a blue elevator-blue means exit, pink means guest rooms-again, no signs) and go from H to 1.  You exit on 1.  All the walls have been painted black, not black matte, but shiny black, with BIG pink room numbers-Like 10” each to the left of the door. Think coupon days at Micheal’s.    No braille here, folks. You walk down the corridor toward the ceiling to floor and 5 foot wide video screen flashing pictures of all the horror show classics, Psycho, the Shining, Chucky, with a few dancing skeletons and Happy Halloweens in between. We hang a left at the Bates motel and down 7 steps to the game room…Costco foosball, claw game, and two PacMan games, are next to the next set of elevators.  The elevator has a karaoke screen and instruction to dance and sing to the music like no one is watching, then post to Instagram…and has been artful overdone with pink nHow stickers kinda of like a elementary school water bottle.  Fifth floor, please.  More black and pink paint-must have been a sale. 


We arrive at our Junior suite.  There is an 8x10 sitting/living room with an open closet area.  The wood work has been freshly painted with the hot pink, the traditional Roman wallpaper is still  on the back wall.  There are hangers and some small floating shelves, refrigerator, safe and coffee bar set up, and curtains to cover the area, or get in the way of making coffee in the morning.  More on that in a minute.  On the floor of the closet is a golden half of a crab trap contraption that we have decided after much giggling is our suitcase stand.  Too bad it only comes up to our chins…which of the five suitcases will get to sleep here?  On one hand it is handy for those suitcases that must lie flat open to get into both side, on the other it is a back breaker.  The floor is the original blue, peach and burnt orange flower tile design from its previous life.  The mosaic wallpaper remains on the lower part of our living room wall, along with a full length mirror bordered in hippy flower.  Top the whole thing off with a pink velvet sleeping sofa and small white marble table and you have our living room.  


Now, on to our sleeping accommodations.  In its previously life, this room had two twin beds which fit neatly into two arches, with more Romanesque mural wallpaper.  I assume there was a nightstand that serviced both beds.  Those have been replaced with a king bed awkwardly placed between the two decorated arches.  The nightstand has been replaced with two funky rather small purple flower shaped tables. Ed’s CPAP (Snuffy) is sleeping on the floor.  The traditional lamps have been replaced with wall mounted bright halogen lamps.    There are two windows with heavy black out drapes from the previous life that have orange mosaic pattern on them.  To tie the entire look together, the ceiling has been covered with 9 or so swifts (Not Taylor, but she would have appreciated the orange touches) in flight (like Martins, I know, because old people know their birds) purplish navy stickers.  I would loved to have been at the meeting when the corporate design team pitched this to management.  There must have been wine involved.  


The bathroom is actually not bad, if you like black Italian tiles on the walls and floors.  The upgrade involved making the sink area smaller, and placing flat black rocks on it to place your things that might make a ring.  The towels a large and fluffy and not pink and the toilet works,  so all is well.


Back to the coffee serve area…a 2.5x2.5 area with the drapes covering 1/4 of the area.  Italians do love their coffee .  You have actual cup ware for either coffee or espresso. No paper cups and plastic tops here.  Italians savor a cup of coffee or espresso.   There is a Lavazza coffee machine, pods, spoons, a tea pot, carton of water and glasses. Read crowded work area.    No instructions, but I am a worldly traveler and understand non Keurig machines.  However, the plug does not work unless you press and hold the plug in while you make your cup of coffee .   So, to make coffee in the morning, I have wrapped the drape around my neck (very European) hold the plug in and pull the chrome hand to engage the pod.  Great coffee, managed to drink it and not blow it out my nose laughing when I told Eddie how I made it.  


I do not know when we have laughed so hard. We have actually hung out in the lobby/bar area to watch people that made same post cruise book error.  Average age here is 75…the looks on their faces tell us all we need to know. White Lotus Rome…nope.  At this stage of life, travel memories and a great belly life are like gold.  I hope the rest of our trip is as much fun as our stay in Rome has been.  


Happy Halloween

To Rome with Love

 With Fall finally in the air in Houston, and a Cat 5 in Gulf, we have packed our 5 bags and are bound for Rome.  We have booked a 16 day trip back across the ocean to Tampa.  So, in Pickle style I am inviting you to join me for the good, bad and ugly….and the inevitable Eddie stories.   


We typically make this “run” from Florida to our destination in the Spring, since the ships move their “assets” in the Spring to the Mediterranean.  (Don’t you love when I talk “ship”?  For people of a certain age…ultimate dirty talk.) It allows your/our bodies to adjust to the time difference in a very civilized manner….if Eddie chooses to miss bingo or an enrichment speaker for a nap, all is well.  So, why are we changing our well worn rut?  Our Portland based cruise buddies contacted us two years ago and begged us to book this TA (Transatlantic) cruise.  Eddie said, sure!  Well, a lot of water has passed under the bridge since then (read we are two years older-and all the joy that brings).  So, this should be a real study in international travel over a certain age.  We still get high marks on North American travel.  As my Mom would say, “Aging is not for sissies”.  Looking around the airport, and our plane, there is are a lot of people that have crossed over the imaginary speed bump (Peter Attia says 75) looking dazed and confused.  Eddie calls them Mouth Breathers.  Yes, you know the ones standing in the middle of the airport concourse or airplanes aisle (Eddie’s personal favorite) mouth gaping open, wondering where they were and how they got there.  Kinda like a computer/ipad/phone freezing up and you have to do a hard reset.  Once the reset is complete they shuffle on.  


We have always found people in the airport (our fellow passengers) to be the best people watching ever.  I am sure we are being watched and whispered about, too.  Goes with the territory.  There were plenty of the usually suspects.  You know fuzzy bedroom slippers to travel, support animals with their Amazon “official” support vest, large stuffed Squishmellos animals, and those that clearly do not have any notion of what the number two means.  Two as in one rolling bag or Duffle and one personal item like a backpack.  Just because Ten starts with a “T” does not mean they will allow you to board with all of those things.  Queue security personnel and gate attendants and the debate over the number two.   


Newark’s people watching was outstanding.  Most of you know our habit of using our United mileage to “purchase” or “upgrade” our tickets.  Eddie’s years of faithful Continental/United usage has given us certain lifetime status to be able to use our points for actual airline perks.  I am sure the rules will change at some point, but we enjoy that perk often.  This trip we are traveling Polaris class-they renamed First/Business class.  Why?  Well, their travel credit cards and two free United Club passes have become so popular that United had to build another United Club (major hubs only) for their highest paying customer.  Polaris.  Not as crowded, better food-you can actually get hot fresh food off of a menu.  Eddie was smitten.  One of our fellow Polaris peeps provided the best of the day in people watching.  He was traveling with his wife (or travel companion, as some of these folks do not marry, just travel together to avoid the single occupancy upcharge).  She was rather unremarkable.  He,  however, was not a normal over 70 traveler.  He had close cropped hair, dyed electric blue.  His eyes had iridescent blue contacts…kinda like the LaBuBu doll that was clipped to his belt loop. I almost went up and counted the number of pointed teeth on the guy’s plastic face, him not the doll.    If you do not know what LaBubu or Lafufu dolls…you do not have granddaughters of a certain age.  There are several websites to include Wikipedia that will give you the 411 on said craze.  Short version-this generation’s troll doll with fur,  Thanks to Lucy, I have learned the Tao of  LaBubu and know where to find them in Kingwood.  Could they be knock offs, absolutely, but they scratch her itch.  The magic number of pointed teeth (9) makes it a LaB not a LaF.  Subscribe to my newsletter for more grandparenting gems like that one.  


After two non ATC or TSA events at two major Hubs for United, we made the crossing at 35,000 feet. No drama or late planes.    While there were lots of fasten your seat belt moments-yes, there was turbulence, and the charming (insert eye roll) Italian cabin steward that felt the need to run in his finely made Italian made shoes up and down the Polaris class aisle that prevented us from using the reclining seats, two pillows, three blanks and the eye mask or bath shoes to sleep.   It also must have been his first time to use a microphone…back up, dear.  Even in Italian is was too loud, too muffled and prone to feed back. We arrived in Roma at 7:35 AM.  


Our cruise buddies tipped us off that we should follow the black arrows (Italian code for Ugly Americans) on the airport floor to the custom area.  While all arrival gates appeared to terminate in the customs area, we have been trained to look for signs that reinforce our movements.  Glad we had been tipped off or we would have been the Mouth Breathers looking for our reset button.  They also mentioned that we should take our time getting to the baggage claim carousel as the Italians are not in as  big of a  hurry as us Black liners.    Yeah, right again.  We could have had a leisurely cup of cappuccino and pastries or a gelato before making our way to the baggage claim area.  Not our Eddie, he likes to be first at the luggage shoot.  He foolishly believes that the Orange priority tags actually mean first off the plane.  Yeah, Eddie, Santa Claus is coming soon, too.  


it is all about Attitude!

  As I mentioned yesterday, we had two incidents that are firsts on a ship.   The Crazy Cake Caper…we still have not heard after we asked No...